Mklec will be closing within the next few weeks.
We’ve enjoyed serving all of you for the last several years, but due to a big change in our future, we’ve decided that closing our business is the best way to proceed.
Part of this change is our move to another state and since this will require a lot of time to get moved and situated, we think it’s better to close our business for now since it would be impractical to try and keep it going during this busy time.
Thank you very much for all of you and the support you’ve shown us over the years. We’ve had many great customers and we couldn’t have done it without you all.
What happens next?
We’ll close our website down within the next few weeks and then we’ll most likely keep our Ebay account going so we can sell off bulk items.
If you’re a builder or a hobbyist looking to stock up, contact us via email (sales [at] mklec.com) and we’ll try and make a deal on components that you’re looking for that we have in stock.
The Miles Family
After careful consideration, we have decided to discontinue the GreatScott! Color Organ kits.
We want to sincerely say thank you for all of you who have purchased them and those who have given us feedback on them.
I’m working on rolling out a series of pedal kit build tutorials that walks you through building one of our tagboardeffects DIY guitar effects pedal kits and here’s the first part of that series. One of the goals I’ve had for a while now is to try and make it as easy as possible for people new to building electronic circuits to do so and our guitar effects pedal kits are a great way to dive in. So I am creating a complete walk-through of building a kit, showing you step-by-step how to do it and explaining it well enough that you should be able to build your first kit with minimal problems.
I’ve recently added our new rotary encoder PCB for use with most standard 5-pin rotary encoders. I think these stand out from other similar products because multi-application was one of the key concepts in the design of the PCB. I’ve also added 100nF capacitors to cut the debounce problem associated with rotary encoders, so there’s no need to add additional off-board components for this reason. I’ve also added 10K resistors for the purpose of limiting current and as pull up resistors. If you’d like your PCB(s) without these components pre-installed, contact me.
You can get these at http://mklec.com/components/circuit_boards_pcbs/mklec-rotary-encoder-pcb-diy
We get asked this question a lot, so I’ve decided to create this brief tutorial explaining how to get a shipping quote for your order.
- Add the desired products to your shopping cart.
- Go to “View Cart” (http://mklec.com/checkout/cart).
- Under the section “What Would You Like To Do Next?”, choose “Estimate Shipping & Taxes”:
- You should see the following options appear. Simply enter your information and click “Get Quote” and you’ll get the different shipping rates available for your location.
I’m a bit excited to introduce this kit since it’s the first of it’s kind in our line of DIY guitar effects pedal kits. While it’s not really an “effects” pedal in and of itself, it certainly adds a desirable touch to many different types of effects pedals.
Following the success of our partnership with GreatScott! and the launch of the GreatScott! LED Color Organ Kit, we’re happy to introduce the new PCB version of this kit. With some careful thought and consideration, we’ve come up with a version that is more practical, easier to build, visually appealing, and flexible in how you choose to use it. Read more
This tutorial will explain the differences between 3-pole (TRS) and 4-pole (TRRS) plugs and sockets.
If you’ve ever tried connecting a headset/microphone designed for one particular manufacturer’s phone to another and it didn’t work, it may be because the pinout was wrong.
I ran into this recently with the Movo PM10 Lavalier Microphone for iPhone and trying to use it with other devices, such as a camcorder, etc.
We sell the different parts to do your own prototyping and make your own custom cables/devices, however it doesn’t do much good if you don’t understand the pinout as it relates to your device. So hopefully this article will help you better understand these pinouts.
For this article, I will be focusing on standard 3.5mm (1/8″) TRS and TRRS plugs and sockets.
This tutorial demonstrates how to use our FC-113 IIC/I2C Serial Interface Adapter Module For 1602 LCD Display. These serial interface modules simplifies connecting an Arduino to a 1602 Liquid Crystal display using only 4 wires. This module uses the PCF8574T IC chip.
Here we are, 2015. As the new year dawns, I’ve been thinking of ways to improve our guitar effects kits. You all have been very helpful by giving us your feedback and we’ve taken all of those things into consideration. Here’s what’s changing with the kits as of January 1, 2015:
DIP Sockets & Header Pins Included
We are going to include our female header pins and DIP sockets necessary for the transistors and IC chips in the kits. Even though they’re optional, we highly recommend them and so we’re going to include them in the kits. Not only do they help prevent damaging the parts with overheating, but they also allow you to experiment with other transistors and IC chips if you’re willing to tinker in hopes of finding a new tone.
Changing Included DC Chassis Socket
Many of our customers have no need for a “switched” socket since they don’t want to put a battery in their pedal and the extra terminal does more to confuse people than to help. So all kits purchased this year will include the smaller, non-switched DC Plastic Power Socket that we think you’ll appreciate. If you would rather have the Switched DC Chassis Socket that we’ve included in the kits in the past, simply mention it when you purchase your kit(s) and we’ll gladly change it out for you.
Color Veroboard Layout
Some of you have already seen these since we made this changeover in early December. We’ve added a color laser printer and now print the veroboard layouts that come with the kits in color. They’re prettier!
Enclosure LED Resistor
We’re adding a 2.2K Ohm Carbon Film resistor to the kits for the enclosure LED. We realized there was nothing indicating the need for this and so we’ll add one in for convenience. A lower value resistor can be used if you desire a brighter LED, but we’ve chosen the 2.2K since it’s safe for a larger range of input voltages and will dim the LED a little bit so it’s not glaring bright in darker settings.
We will continue to work on making improvements to the kits if we think they’ll make them more helpful and easier to you. It’s important that you send us your questions and/or concerns because this helps us to know what’s lacking and how we can make it better.
We’ll be working on a series of instructional material to better help people new to effects pedal kit building. Based on feedback, we realize that such a resource would be very helpful and so we’re going to try and get that done in the near future. Until then, keep the tagboardeffects’ Greeny’s Vero Build Guide in mind for beginner how-to and then the Fault Finding a Build guide in mind for troubleshooting techniques. They also have a Forum where you can ask questions and find answers from other very knowledgeable builders.
Thanks for making 2014 a great year and we hope 2015 is an even better year.